Judy Bennett. Thanks for the info! Was going to pick up the Mini today but after reading your article I decided to go with the R3 JR instead. Plus Menards has a sale this week where you get the free clamp to go along with it. Thank you! This article represents my own opinion and may contain affiliate links.
Please read my disclosures for more information. Pocket screw joinery is the best option for the do-it-yourselfer because pocket screws create very strong joints and don't require you to have a lot of special or expensive tools that you won't use frequently. Dowels, biscuits, half lap joints, dovetaills, and so on are time consuming and sometimes require specialty tools.
If you're not a full time carpenter and just like to build things from time to time because it not only saves money but it's fun, it's important to not spend a lot of money on tools that will collect dust. All you need are butt joints which are easy to cut even on a small budget. See my post on how to make square cuts. Getting perfectly square cuts will ensure a straight project and strong joints. You don't need dozens of clamps!
The screws will hold the work pieces together. Clamps aren't cheap and even small projects wind up needing more clamps than I have. I built a number of euro style cabinets to make a built-in desk and I don't own a single expensive, long bar clamp!
Pretty strong from my experience. I haven't done any formal testing but the first thing I built with my Kreg Mini when I got it was a pair of panel carriers to move some drywall and plywood down to my basement. We were moving 2 sheets at a time, about lbs, down the stairs.
About half the time using the top handle with the pocket hole joint. About 2, lbs of drywall and plywood was moved this way. That was about 3 years ago and I've used them a few times since and they haven't failed. Cabinets, desks, and all other projects I built with Kreg pocket holes have been very sturdy too. The accessories that come with the Mini Kreg Jig Kit are a special stepped drill bit that makes the pilot hole and pocket hole in one step.
The bit comes with a stop collar and an 4mm hex key for adjusting the collar. The Kreg Jig Mini makes the same pocket holes it's big brothers make. This is the only Kreg Jig I own and I've used it for numerous projects including cabinets for a built in desk. I learned how strong the pocket screws were when I moved dozens of sheets of drywall with my DIY panel carriers. It's a little slower to use than the other jigs because you have to manually place the jig in the correct spot.
Using makeshift spacers made it easier and using the Kreg Face Clamp speeds things up even more. Kreg Jr. Pocket Hole Jig. In hindsight, I should have bought the Kreg R3 Jr. The Kreg Jr is a lot faster to use than the Kreg Mini because it comes with built in guides that can be adjusted for the thickness of material you're working with and the case includes a guide to help you adjust the stop collar on the drill bit.
One of the things that slowed me down a lot was having to stop and change the stop collar. It was a very clumsy process. With the Kreg mini I would have to unclamp, move the jig over, position it using the spacers, clamp it back down, drill and repeat.
With the Kreg Jr I would have been able to just slide the jig over and not have to spend time realigning the jig. When you're making dozens of pocket holes, those few seconds saved each time really add up. A plastic insert allows you to attach the Kreg Face Clamp to the Kreg Jr Jig which makes repositioning the jig with one hand a snap. The Master System is essentially the same as the K4 with some extra useful accessories such as the face clamp, portable base, 6" square driver in addition to the 3" driver and a material support stop.
The horizontal position is good for drilling pocket holes in large panels and plywood. The PRO is portable, but you can purchase an optional clamp to attach it to a workbench.
You can also purchase a docking station. The docking station transforms the PRO from a portable jig into a benchtop jig. The docking station includes a clamp and two material support wings. The clamp attaches your PRO to your workbench. The docking station wings provide extra support for wide or long workpieces.
Also included is a material stop that attaches to the wings. The stop allows you to precisely drill pocket holes in the same spot on multiple workpieces. The wings are also storage compartments. You can keep the clamp, material stops, drill bit, driver bit, and more in the storage wings. These smaller pocket holes are great for:. The series replaced the discontinued K5 and is a step up from the PRO. The series works well for small to large furniture projects and drilling holes in panels and plywood.
The series is significantly larger than the K5 pocket hole jig that it replaced. I would need to reconfigure the layout of my shelves to get the to fit.
The series is available as the and the PRO. The difference is the PRO includes a docking station and a clamp to attach the jig to your workbench. The docking station is also available as an accessory if you want to upgrade your The PRO includes a docking station and a clamp to attach the jig to your workbench.
The plugs are cut from leftover scrap wood from your project, so they will exactly match your project. The Foreman is a step up from the series. The Foreman works well for large furniture projects.
The Foreman drills pocket holes in one step. The workpiece is clamped in place when you pull down the handle, and the built-in drill makes the pocket holes. The Foreman is large and expensive. The tool is probably more than the average DIYer would ever need. You can buy a Kreg Foreman here. The compact size is perfect for a small shop. Kreg Pocket Hole Jig I hope this side-by-side comparison of six Kreg Jigs will help you confidently decide which pocket hole jig to buy.
Thank you for stopping by. If you enjoyed this tutorial, would you please take a moment and pin it to Pinterest? Great article about all the different types pocket hole jigs. I have a 2 hole portable that I love using. Thanks so much! Very informative. Does it not have one? The PRO does not have a dust port. The PRO is a good jig, but your K4 has a few advantages, like the dust port and the clamp. It's hard to see, but there are two arrows in the middle of the jig that point to the dimensions on the sides.
Hook the gray sliders on the end of the board, and clamp the jig in place. You can use an inexpensive bar clamp , or one of the Kreg face clamps with a round end that fits perfectly in the round platform of the jig. Next, adjust the depth of the drill bit. Insert the hex key into the hole in the collar of the drill bit to loosen it. Place the drill bit with the collar in the recessed area of the R3 case.
Line the top of the collar up with the marking for the thickness of your board, and tighten in place. Insert the drill bit into your drill chuck and tighten. Then stick the bit into one of the holes in the R3 and drill until the collar reaches the jig. Repeat in the other hole. That's all there is to it! To avoid making this post too long, I cover how to use pocket holes here.
The process is the same no matter which jig you use. One of the drawbacks to the Kreg Jig R3 is that you have to reclamp it every time you want to make a new hole. When you're building something with a LOT of pocket holes, it can get pretty tedious!
The Kreg Jig K5 has a built in clamp, making the process much faster. When you have a project like my rocket bookshelf with pocket holes all over the place, it's a lifesaver! One of my favorite features of the K5 is the dust port. You can easily attach a shop-vac to suck away all that sawdust. Drilling pocket holes makes a huge mess! Anytime I can skip cleaning and move straight to the next step, I'll take it!
The Kreg Jig K5 comes with two "wings" to store all the bits and pieces you need to make pocket holes. The less expensive K4 doesn't have these wings, but is otherwise pretty similar. The wings are for more than just storage, though. They serve as support for longer boards so they stay flat as you drill the holes. Adjusting the settings on the K5 is easier than the R3. First, adjust for the thickness of the board by pulling on the knob in front and raising or lowering the holes.
Unlike the R3, the K5 uses the length of the screw to determine the position of the collar on the drill bit. There's a chart included with the K5 that fits inside the wings for easy reference. This little step guide makes adjusting the stop collar super easy! Determine which step you're going to use, and set it under the drill hole.
Loosen the collar on the drill bit and drop it into the hole over the step. The bit tip will fit in the hole on the step, and the collar will rest at the correct spot above.
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